Thursday, February 21, 2008

Custom Suit Review Photos, Part Two


This is my first made to measure charcoal gray suit from Custom Suit Shop in Atlanta. In the first part of the made to measure suit review we covered the fitting process. Now we'll look at the made to measure suit in detail.

The jacket has lightly padded shoulders and seems to be half canvassed. Construction using a separate canvas lining piece allows the wool, the lining and the inner lining to move separately since they are loosely sewn together. Off the rack jackets often have a fused lining where the wool, canvas lining and inner lining are all fused together, making for a stiffer jacket that may eventually come apart as the glue separates. This shop also offers a fully floating canvas jacket. The detailed measurements and construction of the made to measure jacket allow it to fit the body closely. With the narrow lapels and double vents the lines look great and I find the fit to be quite comfortable. Many ready made suit jackets have a wide arm hole, so that any size arm may fit. This jackets armhole and sleeves are cut more closely to follow the actual measurements of my arm.

A side view showing the lines of the jacket and pants together. The line of the pants shape allows a fitting transition from the wider shape of the jacket.





Breast pocket and lapel detail showing the pick stitching. The pick stitching is found throughout the jacket. This is a nice decorative touch on a solid colored fabric jacket.


This charcoal gray wool is a classic business suit color. When ordering your custom suit, you can choose from woolen suitings made by Gladson Ltd, Dormeuil of England or
Vitale Barberis Canonico of Italy. This is a Super 100 fabric from Gladson.



The working cuffs feature horn buttons and more pick stitching. Buttons are available from Holland and Sherry of London. The working cuff buttons aren't usually found on ready made jackets.



A close up of the button shank and lapel edges.



Opening up the front of the jacket reveals the lining, inside pockets and the armhole. You can order several variations on the inside and external pockets. Inside this jacket features the usual breast pockets, plus a cell phone pocket and a pen pocket. There is also an inside handkerchief pocket.


I'm really pleased with the fit and look of the suit. The close fit of the suit to my body gives it a clean and trim look. It seems that every other time I wear this charcoal gray suit, I get positive comments from friends and especially from women.